This week, I’ve been thinking about pears.

Mmmm. Pears…

Pears? I can almost see your furrowed brows. Why pears? you may be wondering and well you might.

Apples are, after all, the glory of Albemarle County. We have our own heirloom variety—the tiny, tart Albemarle Pippin—not to mention apple festivals and fall pressings and, my personal favorite, my buddy Kevin Lynch’s homemade hard apple cider.

Just this fall, apples have adorned the cover of Edible Blue Ridge magazine here in Charlottesville; they’ve been the subject of countless newspaper food section spreads all over our region; they were the star of—well, at least the opening act in—The Botany of Desire, the book that started the whole Michael Pollan phenom. And yet … I can’t stop thinking about pears.

You see, they, too, are in season—though you’d never know it to look at the grocery store shelves, which abound with pears fresh off the container ship from China and Chile twelve months of the year…

But the “slow foods”-local foods folks have got me thinking about seasonal eating. And that’s meant thinking back, way back to childhood when “farm fresh” meant the food I ate “down home,” at my grandparents’ farm in Godsey, a tiny community of emancipated slaves who all purchased land together, founded a church together, married, farmed, worked, and lived together near Ninety-Six, a one-stoplight hamlet in South Carolina’s Appalachian foothills.

Yes, there’s a story behind the name Ninety-Six, and one day I’ll tell it, but today I’m thinking about the pear trees on my grandfather’s farm—one hundred fifty acres of the “sweetest land on earth,” my Uncle Lee Moss used to call it.

Just after dawn last November: an old tree swing, the sweetest land on earth

There was a pear tree by the cotton house, where the cotton was stored until it could be taken to the gin, another by the well house and yet another next to the enormous woodpile that fed the woodstoves, the one on which my grandma—we called her Mawmaw—cooked and the ones that heated the house.

I knew nothing of varieties in those days, just that the fruit were green and stony hard and they’d make you sick if you tried to eat them too soon (and we “grands” tried every year). But that was just until late fall, and then they’d turn honey sweet and golden yellow—well worth the wait.

Those trees gave fruit in such abundance that it was impossible to eat fresh. So my aunts and uncles would pick, and Mawmaw would can in quart-sized Mason jars or turn the fruit into meltingly sweet preserves.

Sweetness. That was what I remember of that farm. Now, I was a city kid and no stranger to penny sweets from the corner store. But there was nothing in my city life like the sweetness to be found on that farm, which, along with pears, produced  green and red apples, yellow and white peaches, bright red plums not to mention the sweet melons from Mawmaw’s one-acre vegetable “patch” and the mulberries, maypops, blackberries, scuppernongs, muscadines, persimmons, and so much more that grew wild.

By the time of cold weather, this time of year—the time of frosty nights and grandkids snuggled two and three to a bed under piles of quilts sewn on a foot-powered Singer by Mawmaw and my aunts—all that sweetness had been dried or canned or jellied and was waiting in neat rows in the root cellar to be turned into dessert.

So I’d like to share a recipe for my grandmother’s cobbler—a word she never used, by the way; her desserts were either “cakes” or “pies.” I was lucky enough to get the green thumb gene from my Mawmaw—the baking gene, unfortunately, passed me by. But this cobbler, which is neither a cake nor a pie but a kind of best-of-both-worlds cross between the two, is so easy even I can’t mess it up!

One note about the pears—my grandmother made this all-purpose recipe with fresh peaches or berries in summer or with canned pears or dried (and reconstituted) apples in fall and winter. A really firm pear would likely not cook to the desired consistency, so I’d recommend really ripe fresh pears or lightly stewed pears for this recipe.

Mawmaw’s Fall Pear “Pie”

1 stick of butter

1 cup of self-rising flour

1 cup of sugar

1 cup of milk

1 T of vanilla extract

½ tsp of cinnamon

A pinch of salt

2 cups of peeled pears

Peel and chop the pears. If they’re nice and soft, add 1 T of sugar, a squirt of lemon and set aside in a bowl. If they are firm, stew for about 10 minutes in a small amount of water with 1 T of sugar and either a pinch of salt or a squirt of lemon. (A touch of tart to cut the sweetness).

Preheat oven to 325 degrees, place butter in a casserole-style baking dish in the oven.

Combine wet and dry ingredients separately, then slowly combine wet with dry to create a cake-like batter.

Remove the melted butter from oven and pour the batter on top of the melted butter.

Pour the pears and some of the reserved juices on top of the batter.

Shake the dish to even the distribution of batter and fruit.

Bake about 30 minutes or until a golden brown crust forms on top. (Note: This will not be a “dry” pie, but gooey and delicious).

Serve with a tall, frosty glass of (raw!) milk or with a scoop of your favorite vanilla ice cream.

OK, this is making me hungry. I gotta get in the kitchen and get baking. … But stay tuned. I’ve got a lot more to say about my farming ancestors. I think you’ll find them quite an interesting crew.

For the last month of Saturdays I’ve been “working” the Charlottesville City Market.

Mmmmm, City Market…

Now, those of us who love Charlottesville have long known about the Charlottesville City Market. And what we know  surer than celery with our Buffalo wings is that the CCM is no longer the city’s best-kept secret. In high summer, it’s more like the ultimate see-and-be-scene. If you’re not there by 8 a.m., you’ll never make the circuit in under an hour. If you’re not there by 10, you can forget finding your favorite wild mushrooms, arugula or farm fresh eggs.

“Working” the market, now … that’s a bit of a fantasy for us avid see-and-be-City-Market-scenesters. But it’s also the perfect cover for those of us who are just … hanging out with our boyfriends.

Yes, gentle readers, I admit it–even though it may cost me my feminist membership card. My new Saturday “job” is motivated largely by my high school-esque desire … to hang out with my guy.

But hey, I have been useful, a value-added aspect of the proceedings. All these years in the city–and those few years on City Council–mean that people are always coming over to talk to me and some of those folks actually buy. They’ve absolutely been lapping up the eggs Marc has been selling as a favor to his good friend, Laura Dollard. In fact, that’s sort of my Saturday alter ego. When I’m at the market, at his side, I kind of morph into … “the egg lady.”

Don’t laugh. OK, you can actually stop rolling on the floor now. It’s great fun, and I’ve actually enjoyed telling Laura’s story.

I have, after all, spent a number of hours with Laura’s chickens. I’ve gotten to know the “pets,” Rocket and Henny Penny, who live in cat cages in the kitchen when they’re not out in the yard scratching in the dirt and eating bugs with their sisters. I mourned with Laura and Marc when a predator got into the barn and killed eight of the girls and wounded several others nearly to death. I was sobered when Laura–who has the kindest of hearts–showed the steel in her backbone by putting a chicken-killing dog down rather than allow it to kill again.

But I don’t think I fully understood the value of what Laura does, who she is, what Broomfield Farm represents, until I sold a dozen extra large eggs to a young man at City Market on Saturday.

I arrived late, around 11ish, and the day was bright but cold. It wasn’t even the City Market any longer–it was the Holiday Market, with mostly different vendors, selling wreaths and jewelry and hand-spun, hand-dyed yarns rather than jams and okra and  dahlias. The shorter days meant Laura’s rooster-less hens were producing fewer eggs, so there were only two dozen left when I assumed the position at Marc’s stand: one dozen extra large at $4 and one dozen double-extra-jumbo eggs at $5.50.

That’s when the young man showed up.

I gave him the prices and, automatically, started to apologize for the size of the eggs and the prices. These are the thing most people complain about, in my brief experience as the egg lady. “Gosh, that’s high,” someone will say, even though they’re looking at eggs graded as “colossal”–twice the size by weight of medium eggs. Or, “Lord, those eggs are big,” they’ll say–thinking, no doubt, of cholesterol or whether the cake will fall or who knows what.

But before I could even draw a breath to respond to what I imagined as his concerns, the kid just cut me off.

“i’ll take the extra large,” he said. I closed my mouth. He handed me four bills, and I handed the eggs over. There was a little bit of byplay while he figured out how to carry them safely in his backpack.Then, spontaneously, he started responding to what I had not quite said.

“Yeah, they’re a little more expensive than grocery store eggs. But it’s not a problem for me, not  when I think about the conditions on those factory farms.”

He kind of gave a little shudder that might have been theatrical, except for the seriousness in his eyes and the set to his youthful, bearded chin. “Yeah, I buy my eggs at the market because it’s just important to me to participate in this food chain.”

He looked around, his eyes taking in the vendors, but not smiling at all. “You know? It makes a big difference to me … that this is a food chain that’s not, that’s not cruel,” he said.

It stopped me cold for a hot second. My meet-and-greet-the-public smile faded, and I gave him my real smile. And then I said, “I know just what you mean.”

Because I did.

I’ve seen what that food chain looks like. It looks like Rocket:

Rocket, the house chicken

I’ve sat at Laura’s kitchen table in sandals and gotten my toe pecked by that food chain, because Rocket wanted to make sure that my painted toe was not something good to eat. I’ve stood in Laura’s backyard gorging on juicy just-overripe peaches watching that food chain scramble for every morsel I dropped or tossed down. Who knew? Who knew that, in addition to bugs and grass and feed, chickens loved peaches? Or that they’d even beg for a bite of your ham sandwich? Who knew chickens had personality? I sure didn’t.

Behold Laura’s girls, chowing on a little squash with their feed …

… and scratching (there’s a reason they call it chicken scratch) in the dust

Free-range eggs are said to be a joke. I’ve found websites defending–seriously, defending–the practice of caging chickens and turkeys, cutting their beaks off so they won’t peck each other, and sending them to slaughter the moment their production falls off. (Check this one out, if you dare. It manages a creepy-crawlie intersection of biblical scripture, anti-organic food rant, and factual reference to nutritional studies.)

But I spent my summer vacation singing the Jets’ theme  from West Side Story to Rocket (”got a rocket in your pocket–keep cooly cool boy!”) while she gazed quizzically up at me with her golden chicken eyes hoping against hope that I’d spare her a bite of bread, so I know sure as celery that free range–at least in Albemarle County–is for real. And those sweet-and-sweaty wings from McGrady’s–well, I don’t feel the same way as I did about them back in the spring, when they were just cheap food to go with my basketball viewing.

(Warning here: I’m about to climb up on my political soapbox.)

Yeah, you do pay more for free-range eggs. But there are real differences between factory-farmed and organic local eggs. There are differences in grade. In the grocery store, you get, for the most part, medium, large, and jumbo. Laura sells pullet eggs (the equivalent of medium), and the sizes move up from there to large, extra large, jumbo, extra jumbo, double extra jumbo and colossal (which are roughly twice the weight of pullet eggs). Why so much larger? Partly because the chickens are large–Rhode Island Reds, a healthy-sized breed–who eat well and get lots of sunlight (which encourages hens to lay).

At left, jumbo from the grocery store; at right, double extra jumbo from Laura’s girls

But to a large degree, the eggs are big because Laura doesn’t slaughter her hens the minute they get older and their production starts to fall off. Older hens produce larger eggs, fewer in number, rather than more, smaller eggs. It’s a raw economic calculation on the factory farm that it’s cheaper to kill a chicken (and turn her into … say, buffalo wings) than to feed her once her laying capacity falls. Fact is, Laura doesn’t even slaughter her hens when they stop laying. They just hang out on the farm and live out their lovely chicken lives–scratching in the dirt and eating bugs and grass and (that increasingly expensive!) chicken feed.

Yeah, that grocery store egg is much cheaper–maybe as little as $1.99 for a dozen. But that grocery store egg is also older, possibly weeks older depending on the point of origin. The egg weighs less, because an air pocket forms between the egg and the shell as it ages. The egg is tougher, chewier because it’s less moist (that whole air pocket thing).

There’s also noticeable difference in the color of the yolk–the grocery store egg’s yolk is a pale yellow rather than the deep rich nearly orange color of the Albemarle County free range egg. That’s partly due to the difference in feed: factory farmed chickens eat a diet that’s mostly genetically modified, pesticide-doused grain and antibiotics rather than the mixed diet of organic corn, bugs, grass and the occasional fruit or bread treat that Laura’s chickens enjoy. And of course, there’s a big difference in nutrition. All eggs are high in choline, B-vitamins, and loads more stuff that’s good for you–but you don’t get that dose of pesticides and antibiotics and hormones with your free-range egg.

At left, grocery store; at right, one of Laura’s girls

I’ve been thinking about this all summer, particularly as I’ve spent more time in Albemarle County with people who live close to the land. Laura has 100 chickens rather than the thousands in cages it is one’s misery to behold (not to mention smell) on the factory farm. The kinds of economies of scale that are possible on those big operations are out of reach for her and the rest of the small farmers in our area. When a bag of feed goes from $8 to $14, it hurts–hurts all of them–and it shows up immediately in the price we pay at the City Market for those eggs or that meat. But one thing you can be assured of is that the chickens and pigs that are the source of all that City Market goodness were well fed and well treated. (And you don’t have to believe me: You can visit the farms and see with your own eyes).

So yeah, my participation in City Market started out being all about hanging out–hanging out with the boy, seeing the world from the vendors’ angle, running my mouth with my friends, that kind of thing. But what I realized on Saturday was that this endeavor has real meaning. We are all part of a food chain in Charlottesville, in Albemarle and the surrounding counties. And for those of us who sell or patronize the sellers at City Market, for those of us who grow our own, even if it’s just a tub of tomatoes on the deck, those few links in the chain we’re able to contribute? They have value, because they’re not cruel. I’ll always be grateful to that serious young man for reminding me of that.

So chew on that with your morning omelet. And I’ll see you in this space soon.

Trifle, the fierce beagle who watches over the chicks

In the nearly six months that I’ve been dating “farm boy”–also known as “Marc”–my friends have come to realize that the whole “farm boy” appellation has been, basically, one of my little jokes. (Actually, a tall joke–the boy’s at least six-four.) Marc is, more properly speaking, a horticulturist (I get corrected when I say “horticulturalist.” Apparently that’s what you call it in the  British Isles–in A-MUR-ca, we lose the “al”).

So anyway, baby boy has been running–and repping–large nurseries for the last decade-and-a-half: a commercial nursery with 17 farms in two counties and relationships from central Virginia to the Washington-Baltimore area, then later an educational foundation where he produced 600 varieties of heirloom plants for display and collection purposes and for retail sales. And then there’s that whole garden renovation and design business of his–and the trees and shrubs and perennials he grows on his own land to supply it…

I say all this not to present my beloved’s bona fides–but because, knowing all this, seeing it all in action, with the trucks and the crew and the whole Charlottesville City Market gig–it should come as no surprise to me that my house is turning into … well, an impromptu propagation lab. But it kind of has surprised me … very pleasantly, I might add.

It all started quite innocently enough, back when it was still warm. Marc and I were sipping wine on the deck, talking roses (I just love it when he talks dirty to me). I was moaning about the fact that I’d planted my favorite rose–Rosa chinensis “Mutabilis,” aka “The Confederate Rose”–at my mama’s, where it was blooming prolifically in a riot of blush to deep pink to coral while in mine there were only a bunch of boring Noisettes and Bourbons. (Yes, I was whining, rose lovers–we know Noisettes and Bourbons are not shabby at all). Whereupon, he bounded off the deck and took a whack at one of my hydrangeas to demonstrate how easily we could make rose babies.

Well, not a whack precisely… He started with a simple garden staple.

And then he dug a groove beneath the hydrangea with what happened to be handy–a stray picket from my fence. He selected a branch from the hydrangea, one with a fork …

Stripped off the leaves, scored the stem with his thumb, stapled it in, and covered it with soil…

All to demonstrate how easy it is to make more of your favorite plants. Come spring, I’ll have baby hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla “Endless Summer,” to be precise) that will be ready for potting or planting in my yard. And I’ll save that that 25 smackeroos I’d otherwise spend for each plant at the local garden center. (Hmmm… was that when I knew it was love?)

That was how it started … and I should have known it was just the start. But now that gardening season is nearly done and pruning season is about to begin, little projects are starting to, well, sprout around the house. For instance, I came home from church on Sunday to discover that Marc had cleaned the kitchen (yes, there is a goddess!) and started puttering around with what was handy: a schefflera that had miraculously survived the plant holocaust that was my dissertation and a couple of geraniums–one with a lovely variegated leaf–that were left over from his summer stock.

This is the pretty little thing I found on my counter.

Here’s a nice closeup.

Basically, what he’d done was filled a small clay pot with river pebbles and nested it inside a larger pot filled with a nice potting mix. I don’t know if you can see in the pix, but the soil in the larger pot comes nearly to the lip of the smaller pot. (The stakes are provided by a piece of bamboo cut to roughly 12-inch lengths and spaced around the rim.)

Next, he took sections of the plants–trimmed of their extra branchings with the leaves cut back, too–and inserted them into the soil. This is another method for turning one plant into six, and I’m sure it has a name–probably a Latin one.

The only tools he used were the most basic ones: his trusty pruning shears and a pair of scissors. I’m sure you’ve got those around the house, too.

Next, he labeled the babies and gave them a good misting, followed by a good drenching: pouring lots of water on the pebbles and draining it off, twice.

The last stage of the operation was supplied by my good friends from Southern States. Namely, a plastic bag that had lately held cat food. This is what our kitchen counter “greenhouse” ended up looking like.

This greenhouse doesn’t require much in the way of sun or anything in the way of attention. We’re, in fact, going to forget about it for a while. And when there’s something new to see, I’ll post it in this space.

… I’m beginning to think I’m dating The Green Man.

Hey, as we used to say in the 60s, I can dig it!